Stitch and tape construction relies on copper stitches to hold the hull together before resin and tape are applied. We tend to follow the sequence below when assembling one of our hulls.

If the panels need drilling…

Some kits have the holes pre drilled for you. If this is the case, then proceed to “Stitching up” below, otherwise, read on. If the panels have not been pre drilled, you will need a 2mm diameter drill bit. Start with the bottom two panels and stack them on top of each other. Drill all round the perimeter spacing your holes about 100mm apart (4 ins or so) but a bit closer at the bow and stern.

Drill the holes about 10mm in from the edge of the panel. To make a neater job mark this line with a pair of compasses. At this stage, only drill the bottom two panels.

Stitch them up as described in the text below, proceeding along the keel, and opening them out.

When you come to add the mid panels, it is very handy to have someone to support one end of the panel while you work.

It is easiest to use the bulkhead reference notches to line up the mid panels with the bottom panels fore and aft (and the top panels with the mid panels, when you come to them). These are indents in the edges of the panels that will later mark precisely where the bulkheads go. They should line up as shown below. Start your drilling your mid panel holes as you need them, stitching at this point and tightening the first few a fair bit to stop the panels sliding fore and aft relative to each other. As you continue drilling/stitching the rest of the edge, keep checking that these bulkhead notches line up.

At the ends of all but the bottom panels, stitch like that shown below. These stitches hold the port and stb’d panels together more firmly so it’s handy to get them in place as soon as possible. Repeat the whole process for the top panels.

Stitching up
Some kits have the stitching holes pre drilled for you: Assemble the panels and wire them together using individual stitches cut from the copper wire Experiment, but a length of about 4 inches is usually sufficient. Ensure that the panels are all thecorrect way round, so that the edges marked keel touch the edges mark ed keel, the chines touch chines and so on. Also ensure that they all have the bow at the same end. Most people find it easiest to stitch the bottom two panels up along the keel (centre line) first, with the panels together, and then open them out. If you do this, leave the stitches loose enough not to pull through the plywood when you spread the panels out. The first picture in this annex shows roughly what you are aiming for. If the stitch holes have been pre drilled for you, they should line up – they won’t if you have something the wrong way round. Do not put stitches in every hole to begin with.

Before stitching the top panels tightly together at bow and stern, you will need to trim back the overhanging rebated gunwales, if they have been fitted. A critical fit is not needed, but you need to take off enough to let the edges of the plywood touch. Many people trim with a saw while they are tightening the stitches. Others mark on and cut the half angle (obtained from the breasthooks) before stitching. Either method is good, as long as the gap left is not more than the width of the stem/stern post, since this completely covers it. Refer to your main instructions for this width.

Where the panels meet at a small angle (near the bow) a screw driven in the joint can help hold them together, see below. 

Go back round the hull putting stitches in every hole, and tightening them to ensure the panels meet edge to edge. This can be aided by using a screwdriver to press the stitches from the inside, see above. Where the panels meet at a very tight angle you may have alignment tabs pre cut to help you, see below. If you haven’t already done so, square out thecorners of these tabs so that they let the panels meet edge to edge.

It is important to be VERY fussy at this stage as imperfect alignment is difficult to tape over, and shows up as unfair lines.Insert the bulkheads and wire them loosely in place, making sure the reinforcing pieces along their tops are facing the right way – given by the bulkhead diagrams in your main instructions.

Your main instructions should also tell you the reference marks which indicate exact bulkhead location. Generally they are marked with small indentations in the edges of the hull panels, see below, but refer to the main instructions if you’re unsure.

Do not force the bulkheads to fit right up to the hull panels with local stitches as this will distort the bottom panels. Instead use a piece of strong timber (box sides?) about 2ft long with two holes drilled in a line, about an inch apart. Thread strong string through this and tie it in a loop over the bulkhead. Use a Spanish windlass to tighten it and pull the bulkhead into the boat. Rest the trestles underneath the bulkhead. Sellotape on the timber will keep it from sticking when you come to tack the boat together.

Essential on some kits are the temporary deck pieces, refer to the main instructions which will tell you if you need them. They hold the shape of the boat in plan view, since that affects the line of the sheer in profile, during the taping up process.

The temp decks are important because they hold the port and starb’d gunwales the correct distance apart. If they are left to come in, the sheer line will look funny.

Assemble the bow and stern temporary deck pieces, using the cross pieces, into their triangular shapes as shown below. The cross piece should align edge to edge with the side pieces. Use temp screws to hold it together. The cross piece will also probably need reinforcing with some scrap strip wood – you could use the box sides. Use scrap blocks screwed or clamped to the rebated gunwale to hold the temp decks in position, along with a wire stitch right in the bow (or stern) to hold it fore and aft. The rebated gunwales will be completely covered with both an inner and outer gunwale, so do not worry about making screw holes in them at this stage.

The Temp Decks stay in until the outer gunwale strips are glued on. If they get terribly in the way, you could replace them with wooden props temporarily. You may find that after filleting the bulkheads in and taping both inside and out, that they aren’t doing a great deal. However they will probably (especially at the stern) be holding out the top panels between the bulkhead and the end of the boat, so don’t remove them if the sides spring inwards a great deal.

Set the boat up approximately level, using props from the floor, ceiling or trestles. If you haven’t already done so, move the supporting trestles so they are under the bulkheads, and not straining unsupported hull.

Check the maximum beam of the boat. It should be fairly close to the dimension given in the main instructions, but you may need to prop it out or pull it in a little. Cut a spreader stick and clamp or screw it in position if necessary. This should remain in place at least until you have the inside taped up.

Sight down the centreline of the boat checking for twist as shown in the diagram above. Remove any twist by propping more carefully. You may also like to double check for twist by using a spirit level across the gunwales near both bulkheads. Again it is important to be fussy; when you put the epoxy and tape on, the relative positions of these panels will be fixed permanently, and any twist is likely to be built in for good.

 Re-check the hull for any panels that may have slipped. Ensure everything is edge to edge.

You are now ready to start the gluing process. It goes as follows:

Tack the panels together using small dobs of thickened epoxy on the outside of the hull, between the panels.
Tack the bulkheads in place too, using mini fillets between the stitches.
When set, remove the wire stitches.
Tape the inside.
Turn over and tape the outside.

 Tacking the hull together
Ensure you have read the epoxy manual before proceeding. The hull is first “tacked” together using small slugs epoxy resin, placed approximately every 6-8 inches along the hull, between the stitches (so you can take them out easily once the tacks have set). Where the panels meet at a large angle to each other it is easy to smear small amounts of thickened epoxy on the outside to form a fillet between the two panels. Where they meet at smaller angles, nearer the bow, it is helpful to drill some 8-10mm dia holes in the hull centred on where the panels join. Place masking tape across the hole on one side (usually the outside) and then fill with an epoxy slug (make sure the epoxy is think enough). At the bow (and stern if she is double ended) use generous fillets of epoxy on the outside joint. See below.

When set these slugs will be strong enough to hold the panels while you remove the stitches.
Wait overnight (longer if it has been cold), then carefully snip all the wires. If the epoxy does not hold in a particular area, replace the stitch and leave it in when taping – tape right over it. It can easily be removed later using a little heat (from a soldering iron).

 Taping the hull together
You are now ready to begin taping, but consider these generalities first:
-Plan ahead – Cut the tape to the correct length and lay them to one side so that you know which bit goes where.
-Work clean
-Read the epoxy manuals provided with the resin
-Use Latex or similar protective gloves
-Buy a box of cheap-as-you-can brushes. Cut the bristles down a bit to make them stiffer and easier to stipple with.
-Have a sharp pair of scissors on standby to cut any excess tape

The inside of the hull is taped first, and when that’s set, the outside can be cleaned up (hard lumps of epoxy sanded off and any remaining stitches pulled out using a little heat) and taped in a similar way. Two layers of tape are applied to both sides of the joint. They are laid slightly offset from each other to spread the loading and strengthen the joint, see below. It is helpful to set a pair of compasses to 50mm and drawmark er lines along the panel edges which serve as guides when brushing on the epoxy and applying the tape. Roll out and cut to length the tape you will need for all the inside taping work, allowing a few inches extra at either end (cut off when the resin has set. Remember there are two layers of tape per joint. Don’t forget the central joint (the keel). Treat this in the same way as the chines. If the roll comes to an end halfway along a joint just add to it from the next roll, the joint won’t be weaker. Try to stop neatly either side of the bulkheads, within 5mm or so of them. When they later get filleted in place, the fillet will hide the gap. The tape has a pronounced thickening on one edge.  It helps the final finishing if this pronounced edge is laid furthest from the joint centre – on the marker lines. Once the tape is cut to length gather it up neatly and store it to hand, making sure you know which lengths goes where.

Mix the epoxy and spread onto the inside of the hull with an old or cheap brush (it will have to be thrown away afterwards – we do NOT recommend even attempting washing it out as epoxy in the bloodstream is not good). Use the pencil marks as your guide for how far from the edge to spread, but do not spread it too thickly – the idea is to use as little as possible (though a dry joint is a very weak one) otherwise the tape floats off the plywood. Get it on fairly quickly, especially if you are working in a hot climate. Work in small batches (two epoxy shots) and spread out your entire mix each time. Start laying tape if you have a complete joint “painted” and have come to the end of your mix.
Begin at one end, using the brush to stipple the tape down onto the epoxy. Work fairly rapidly down the length of the boat, stippling the tape down roughly in position. Then go back over it more carefully trying to line it up neatly with the marker lines and ensuring it is thoroughly wet out. It can take time (5mins) for the epoxy to soak right through, and the result should be transparent glass tape. Use more epoxy from the brush if necessary here. Lay on the second layer of tape as soon as the first has been wet out. Again work roughly to begin with, and then more accurately. The stippling motion with the brush seems to us to be more effective than painting it on as the tape doesn’t move as much. Where the tape goes round corners it will wrinkle slightly. Most of these can be worked out with stippling. Repeat the above till you have worked out any air bubbles and all the tape is wet. Leave to set.

With some kits, proceed directly to taping up the outside. With others, it is best to do other jobs first. Refer to the main instructions.

Taping the outside
As mentioned above, once the inside tape has set you can turn over the hull (but please take care as the hull is more fragile than you think) and pull any remaining stitches (apply heat from a soldering iron to the wire for a minute or two if held by epoxy). If you don’t have access to a soldering iron, it is not the end of the world to leave them in place, though cut them off as flush as you can. Leave the temp decks in if you can. Sand the outside of the hull where the tape will go and cut off any alignment tabs if you have them, flush with the profile of the boat. Be careful not to cut off too much. Leave a little excess on the saw cut and work down to it with sandpaper. Mistakes here are not critical though – they will be covered by the stem and stern posts in all likelihood. The surface should now be relatively smooth, any slugs of epoxy should be sanded off flush with the panels, but be careful to maintain the line of the chines, it is easy to dig a power-sander in and alter the sweep of the chines slightly. Remember to draw on marker lines as was done for the inside. The outside taping is easier, but more visible, so a neater job makes finishing for painting easier. One tip is to spread the tape over the joint approximately, as before, but stipple it down along the middle of the joint first. That way you can pull on the ends of the tape to bring the whole lot to lie down neatly, see below.

After stippling and wetting out as per the inside, leave it to set overnight. Once set, wash the outside with warm soapy water and scotchbrite scourer to remove the waxy deposit that will prevent decent finishing. If possible do the inside too, especially where the bulkheads will be filleted in (though using a scraper will do).